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Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device
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Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device

Item # 696601

$23.95

Item qualifies for annual
REI Member Refund (typically 10%)

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Give yourself ultimate control over any rappel or belay with this truly variable friction device.

  • Variable friction design gives greater control over a multiple of rope diameters
  • Use HFM (high friction mode) for thin ropes, wet conditions or rapping with a heavy haul bag
  • Use LFM (low friction mode) when rapping with a fuzzy 11mm rope or speed rapping in your camo
  • Die-cast 380 aluminum is 44% heavier and 20% harder than the original ATC for even more durability
  • Versatile double-slot design allows you to feed single or double ropes smoothly, yet hold falls with ease: won't kink the rope

Please note: Black Diamond products can only be shipped to the U.S., Canada and Mexico

Imported.

Item 696601

Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device Specs

Specification

Description

Weight89 grams
Fits rope sizes8mm - 11mm, single/double
Suitable for belayingYes
Suitable for rappellingYes

Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device Customer Reviews

REVIEW SNAPSHOT®

by PowerReviews
Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device
 
4.1

(based on 13 reviews)

92%

of respondents would recommend this to a friend.

Pros

  • Simple (12)
  • Scratch resistant (3)

Cons

    Best Uses

    • Outdoor climbing (10)
    • Indoor climbing (9)
    • Long climbs (6)
    • Reviewer Profile:
    • Avid climber (4), Casual adventurer (4), Casual photographer (3)

    Reviewed by 13 customers

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    Displaying reviews 1-10

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    Oct

    21

    2007

    (3 of 3 customers found this review helpful)

     
    5.0

    Tried and true- with a twist

    By switch

    from Bellingham, WA

    About Me Casual/ Recreational

    Pros

    • Burly
    • Easy to use
    • Simple

    Cons

    • Heavier than regular ATC

    Best Uses

    • Indoor climbing
    • Outdoor climbing

    Comments about Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device:

    Great belay device. You can't get much simpler than the ATC, and this is the same thing just with some added grooves that let you switch to a high friction mode when belaying. The high friction mode comes in handy on occasion, such as when using small diameter rope or if ice climbing on cold/frozen rope. While it is heavier than the regular ATC, the weight is hardly noticeable, and I like it better because of the added versatility.

    Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

    (3 of 3 customers found this review helpful)

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    Sep

    22

    2007

    (2 of 2 customers found this review helpful)

     
    4.0

    way better than the regular ATC

    By Guycan

    from Flagstaff, AZ

    About Me Avid adventurer, Passionate about climbing

    Pros

    • Pick your friction
    • Simple

    Cons

    • Cable wears

    Best Uses

    • Canyoneering
    • Long Climbs

    Comments about Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device:

    I replaced my regular ATC after fearing for my life on a long rap with a heavy pack while canyoneering. The teeth/goove allow me more confidence/control. Also the non-teethed groove can be used with the break hand if a quicker rap or feed belay is desired. Down side: the plastic covered cable can still get caught between the 'biner and the rope and melt the plastic. Never the less, I bought an extra one for my wife!

    Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

    (2 of 2 customers found this review helpful)

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    Aug

    24

    2008

    (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

     
    5.0

    Good but a little grabby

    By Max1290

    from NC

    About Me Casual/ Recreational

    Pros

    • Plenty of friction
    • Simple

    Cons

    • Grabby

    Best Uses

    • Indoor climbing
    • Long Climbs
    • Outdoor climbing

    Comments about Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device:

    Great device, undoubtedly an improvement on the original ATC. The device makes a ton of friction. You could literally hold a short fall with two fingers (although I would highly discourage it). My only complaint is that when lowering the device is a little grabby and can make for a bumpy ride down. This is remedied by using the low friction side, but if you do that you might as well get the old ATC.

    Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

    (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

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    Feb

    11

    2008

    (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

     
    4.0

    Has it's place, but not for everyday use

    By danep

    from Austin, TX

    About Me Avid Climber

    Site Member

    Pros

    • Simple
    • Versatile

    Cons

      Best Uses

      • Beginner Climbing
      • Long Climbs

      Comments about Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device:

      This is an incredibly handy little tool but it's not going to replace my regular ATC anytime soon. Unless you know you will be needing the extra friction, there's not much point in carrying around the extra weight and having to think about which way you are threading the ATC. Also the high friction setting makes smooth lowers and rappels difficult. But again, for beginners or belaying heavier climbers this is really useful.

      Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

      (1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)

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      Apr

      16

      2009

       
      4.0

      Great for belaying heavier climbers

      By pegasus

      from Indian Trail NC

      About Me Competitive Climber

      Pros

      • Quick to open
      • Scratch resistant
      • Simple

      Cons

        Best Uses

        • Indoor climbing
        • Long Climbs
        • Outdoor climbing

        Comments about Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device:

        My dad and I both climb and he is alot heavier than me, the grooves in the device help me catch him after a long fall!

        • Gift:
        • Yes

        Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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        Oct

        1

        2008

         
        4.0

        Great device for small diameter ropes

        By missionhkr

        from Polson, MT

        About Me Casual/ Recreational

        Site Member

        Pros

        • Simple

        Cons

          Best Uses

          • Outdoor climbing

          Comments about Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device:

          This is a great device. Simple to use (with the right knowledge). I got it for my smaller diameter ropes (8 - 9.7 mm) and it holds well.

          Raps well with small diameter ropes but not very fast.

          • Gift:
          • No

          Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

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          Jan

          15

          2008

           
          5.0

          Good belay device

          By snowhiker

          from Los Angeles, CA

          About Me Getting Started

          Site Member

          Pros

          • Simple

          Cons

            Best Uses

            • Indoor climbing
            • Outdoor climbing

            Comments about Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device:

            Good device, no problems with it at all. Simple to use. More flexible than just ATC for almost no extra cost / weight.

            Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

            Was this review helpful? Yes / No

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            Sep

            29

            2007

             
            4.0

            Great product from a great company

            By Lethal

            from Dallas, TX

            About Me Getting Started

            Site Member

            Pros

            • Lightweight
            • Quick to open
            • Scratch resistant
            • Serated exit
            • Simple

            Cons

            • None so far

            Best Uses

            • Indoor climbing
            • Outdoor climbing

            Comments about Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device:

            This is a great ATC and makes belaying easy for me as a beginner.

            Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

            Was this review helpful? Yes / No

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            Sep

            22

            2007

            (0 of 5 customers found this review helpful)

             
            3.0

            Easy To Use

            By Everestwannabe

            from Plano, TX

            About Me Casual/ Recreational, Getting Started

            Site Member

            Pros

            • Simple

            Cons

              Best Uses

              • Indoor climbing
              • Outdoor climbing

              Comments about Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device:

              i bought this device specifically for indoor use and outdoor climbs, mostly trad. It has worked well so far and I am about to put it to the test on a three pitch climb so we'll see!

              Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

              (0 of 5 customers found this review helpful)

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              Sep

              21

              2007

               
              4.0

              Gold Standard of Belay Devices

              By MarkSDenver

              from Denver, CO

              About Me Avid Climber

              Site Member

              Pros

              • Simple

              Cons

                Best Uses

                • Indoor climbing
                • Long Climbs
                • Outdoor climbing

                Comments about Black Diamond ATC - XP Belay Device:

                The only things better are the BD ATC-Guide and the reverso (I've never used the reverso, but seen them used, and they're practically the same as the ATC-Guide). The ATC-XP works well, is light, and has no moving parts to break. I've had mine for years and can't wait for it to break so I can get an ATC-Guide. Do they break? I'll probably have to lose it/drop it somehow...

                Bottom Line Yes, I would recommend this to a friend

                Was this review helpful? Yes / No

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